The Zambia & Malawi Series - Part II

If you read Part I of my Zambia & Malawi series, you will know my trip with Green Safaris had already taken me from the mighty Victoria Falls in Livingstone to the Lower Zambezi and then up to the vast Busanga Plains. Each stop felt so different and special in its own way, and Part II was no exception.

This leg of the journey took me to Central Kafue, South Luangwa, and finally across the border to Malawi – three places that couldn’t be more different, yet somehow tied together perfectly.

Part II: Central Kafue, South Luangwa & Lake Malawi

Ila Safari Lodge

From Chisa Busanga we took a short charter flight, landing at Chunga Airstrip where the team from Ila Safari Lodge were waiting for us. Ila sits in the central region of Kafue National Park, right on the banks of the Kafue River. This part of the park is known for its incredible mix of habitats which means every game drive feels different and full of surprises.

The camp itself has a lovely balance of style and comfort. Tented suites stretch out along the riverbank, each one blending into the trees with views over the water. It felt both modern and authentic, with just the right amount of luxury without losing that sense of being in the wild.

One of my favourite moments here was gathering around the fire in the morning for pancakes at breakfast. A simple, but such a memorable touch. We also had a fascinating presentation from Panthera, the big cat conservation organisation that works closely with Green Safaris in Kafue. Learning about the important research and protection efforts for lions, leopards, and cheetahs gave real meaning to the wildlife we were seeing.

In the afternoon we set out on a sunset cruise along the Kafue River. The water was calm and golden, hippos popped their heads up to watch us drift by, and a fish eagle called from high above. This was the kind of scene that sums up the peaceful beauty of Kafue. What struck me most about this park is just how wild and vast it feels. At over 22,000 km², it’s one of Africa’s largest national parks, yet you often feel like you have it all to yourself.

Shawa Luangwa Camp

From Ila, we flew to Mfuwe via Lusaka, followed by a road transfer and a short boat ride into Shawa Luangwa Camp. The arrival felt very personal with warm handshakes, wide smiles, and that sense of being welcomed into a place where everyone is proud to share their home.

South Luangwa is often called the Valley of the Leopard, and it didn’t take long to see why. On our very first afternoon we set out for a game drive, stopping for sundowners on the banks of the Luangwa River. Just when we thought the day was winding down, a leopard crossed the road right in front of us. Watching this beautiful cat under the stars was the perfect introduction to the park.

The next morning we swapped the vehicle for a walking safari with our guide Kaleb, who has been guiding here since the days of Norman Carr, the pioneer who founded walking safaris in this valley. South Luangwa is, in many ways, the home of the walking safari, and it felt special to experience it in such good hands. There was something grounding about stretching our legs and taking it all in at a slower pace. Following tracks in the sand, breathing in the smell of wild sage, and noticing the smaller details you miss from a vehicle. We came across giraffe, zebra, elephants, vervet monkeys, and a beautiful variety of birds, each sighting made richer by Kaleb’s stories and knowledge. Our walk ended with a surprise bush breakfast beneath the trees, complete with fresh coffee and warm pastries.

Back in camp, the style at Shawa is definitely geared towards travellers who like comfort without all the extra frills. It’s unfussy, natural, and feels very much in tune with its surroundings. At night, I drifted off to the sounds of the bush, and one evening an elephant walked right past my room! A reminder of just how wild and alive South Luangwa is.

Kaya Mawa

The final stop of my trip was Kaya Mawa on Likoma Island. After flying from Mfuwe to Lilongwe and then out across the glistening expanse of Lake Malawi, we touched down on the island’s little airstrip where a game vehicle was waiting to take us to the lodge. Driving through village paths lined with smiling children and waving hands set the tone straight away – this was going to be something special.

Kaya Mawa is all about barefoot luxury. It’s relaxed and unpretentious, but every detail has been thought through. The design and décor were a real highlight for me – stone walls, soft linens, hand-beaded chandeliers from the island’s Katundu Workshop, and unique touches in each room that make it feel both natural and stylish. My room even had its own stretch of beach, so I could step straight from bed into the sand. And with the sound of the waves (yes, waves on a lake!) lapping the shore, it felt like I’d been whisked off to the ocean.

Days here were easy and full of choice – paddleboarding, snorkeling, kayaking, or simply floating in the clear freshwater. Visiting the Katundu Workshop itself was also a highlight. Seeing the creativity and artistry of the island community gave real meaning to the beautiful pieces I’d been admiring back at the lodge. And, of course, trying the local beer was a must – in Malawi it’s Kuche Kuche, a crisp and refreshing way to toast a perfect day, just as I had enjoyed a cold Mozi in Zambia.

Kaya Mawa was the perfect ending to the trip. After the adventure of safari, it was exactly the kind of place to slow down, switch off, and enjoy being somewhere so special.

Looking back, this trip felt like a string of highlights tied together – from standing in the spray of Victoria Falls in Livingstone and enjoying lunch with our toes in the Zambezi, to pancakes by the fire at Ila, elephants crossing the Busanga floodplains, a leopard sighting at night in the Valley of the Leopard, and finally, barefoot days on Likoma Island at Kaya Mawa. Each camp had its own rhythm, its own magic, and together they showed me just how special Zambia and Malawi really are.

At Lewis & Luyt Travel, one of our core beliefs is that we personally visit every lodge and camp we recommend. This trip was not only a privilege, but also a chance to truly understand the experiences we share with our travellers.