The Zambia & Malawi Series - Part I

If you have been following us on social media, you will know I have recently got back from a trip with Green Safaris, where I visited all of their properties across Zambia’s national parks and ended off on the shores of Lake Malawi.

This is Part I of my journey, covering three very different corners of Zambia: the mighty Victoria Falls in Livingstone, the winterthorn forests of the Lower Zambezi, and the vast open plains of Busanga up north.

Part I: Sindabezi Island Camp, Sausage Tree Camp & Chisa Busanga

Sindabezi Island Camp

The trip started at Livingstone Airport, where I was met with a warm welcome before we set off through Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. I’ve been to Livingstone a few times before, but each visit feels special in its own way. This time, it was the promise of a remote island escape that had me excited. At the edge of the river, a boat was waiting to take us across to Sindabezi Island Lodge, a secluded little hideaway tucked in the middle of the Zambezi.

As we approached the island, the Sindabezi team was waiting on the jetty with all smiles and waves, ready to welcome us. That moment set the tone for the whole stay. There’s something about this little island that instantly makes you breathe. The pace slows, the noise quiets, and suddenly, you’re barefoot on sandy paths winding through the trees, with the Zambezi all around you.

Sindabezi is a small, intimate camp with just five chalets dotted across a tiny private island in the middle of the Zambezi. It’s simple in the best possible way, laid-back, quiet, and full of beautifully considered spaces to just sit and soak it all in. Whether it’s a hammock strung between the trees, a daybed looking out over the water, or a cosy spot by the fire, everything invites you to slow down.

I stayed in Chalet 3, right on the river’s edge. The front is completely open, so from the bed you can watch the sun rise over the water and at night fall asleep to the sounds of the hippos grunting. The rooms are unfussy but elegant, canvas walls, soft natural colours, and a big mosquito-netted bed that feels like a cocoon. Each chalet has a slightly different layout, mine had an outdoor shower tucked to the side of the chalet, which quickly became a favourite spot, especially in the early mornings, with the birds calling and the river quietly moving past.

We spent a few days in Livingstone, which is always buzzing with things to do. It’s the adventure capital of Zambia for a reason and I always recommend clients give themselves enough time here. One of the highlights was visiting Victoria Falls, which was in full flood. We walked the rainforest trails and got absolutely soaked, the kind of soaking that’s so dramatic and fun you can’t help but laugh the whole way through. I have been lucky enough to see the falls before, but this was next-level.

We also took a boat out to Livingstone Island and swam in the Rock Pool, right on the edge of the falls. Devil’s and Angel’s Pools were closed because of the high water, but even standing on that ledge, with the Zambezi rushing past, was a thrill. Afterwards, we had a private lunch overlooking the falls, with nothing but mist and thunder all around us. It felt completely surreal.

On our final evening, we ended the trip with a sunset cruise, always a favourite of mine. The light was golden, the river was still, and we drifted past elephants and hippo along the banks. Just as the sun began to dip, we pulled onto a small island where Mwila, Sindabezi’s incredible camp manager, had set up a surprise sundowner. G&Ts, golden hour, and that peaceful Zambezi stillness. And as if right on cue, a heard of elephants came down to drink. A beautiful end to our stay in Livingstone.

Sausage Tree Camp

From Livingstone, we boarded a charter flight to Jeki Airstrip in the Lower Zambezi, flying low over the winding river below. Hippos dotted the water’s surface like dark stones, and I couldn’t help but feel excited for what was ahead. Waiting for us on arrival was the friendly Sausage Tree team, greeting us with a cooler box full of cold drinks before a short transfer to the riverbank. There, a boat was ready to take us to camp.

After a quick check-in, we set off again by boat and soon found ourselves on a quiet sandbank in the middle of the Zambezi, greeted by a surprise lunch spread. With our feet dipped in the cool river water and a glass of bubbly in hand, I thought to myself, only in Africa!

Sausage Tree camp stretches gracefully along the riverbank, blending seamlessly into the landscape. I stayed in Suite 5, a perfect sanctuary with a huge deck overlooking the water, a private plunge pool, indoor and outdoor showers, and a Nespresso coffee station which is a real luxury for a caffeine lover like me. Every morning began with a tray of fresh coffee and biscuits delivered right to my door, a small, thoughtful touch that made waking up feel truly special.

Days at Sausage Tree are all about choice. Whether it’s a walking safari, canoe trip, sunset cruise, or fishing expedition, there is always something to match your mood. We spent most of our time on game drives with Henry, our calm and knowledgeable guide whose stories brought the bush to life. We were lucky enough to see a pride of lion cubs tumbling through the fallen trees, as well as elephants, impala, kudu, and a stunning variety of water birds.

Evenings were spent on the riverbank, sipping sundowners as the sky turned golden. One night, we were treated to a surprise bush dinner beneath a beautiful winterthorn tree. Lanterns flickered and the fire crackled softly, creating the perfect relaxed atmosphere for an unforgettable evening under the stars.

Just when I thought the trip couldn’t get any better, on our final morning drive to the airstrip, we came across a leopard resting in a tree with a fresh kill, an incredible farewell gift from the bush, moments before our flight home.

Chisa Busanga Camp

Our final stop on this leg was the Busanga Plains in northern Kafue. A landscape so different from anywhere else I’d been. It was my first time visiting Busanga, and the vast floodplains stretching out endlessly beneath are truly impressive. The area is only open in the dry season, making the experience even more special.

We touched down at Busanga Airstrip and made our way to Chisa Busanga Camp in a game-drive e-vehicle. This beautiful, intimate camp has just four nest-like rooms raised on stilts, designed to disappear into the trees. With canvas walls and floor-to-ceiling views over the plains, it feels like a blend of a bird hide and a treehouse.

In just two days, we saw more than 25 lions, including members of the famous Papyrus Pride. Our guide, Newton, was exceptional, especially if you love birding. He knew every call and clearly has a deep connection to this land. In the afternoon's, we headed out on a silent e-vehicle drive. It was so smooth and quiet that we could hear every whisper of the bush. We wrapped up the days with sundowners out on the plains, G&Ts in hand, puku and red lechwe scattered across the grass, a scene that felt nothing short of magical.

On our last evening, we gathered for a traditional boma dinner, complete with local singing, dancing, and classic Zambian dishes cooked over an open fire. It was an authentic and joyful celebration of the culture and the people who make this place so special.

Chisa Busanga is unlike anywhere else I’ve stayed. Simple, thoughtful, and deeply purposeful, it leaves you feeling like you’ve been part of something truly unique.

Keep an eye out for Part II coming soon - there’s even more of Zambia to discover!